Saturday, March 30, 2024

Trip Wrap-up

 Rocky Point Corps of Engineers Campground; near Texarkana, Texas

This trip will end tomorrow around noon when I arrive at my Mansfield, Louisiana home-base RV Park. I decided to use this campground as a transitional campground between RV traveling and RV "staying put for a little while". It was a good choice. The campsite is located nicely with a view out to Lake Wright Patman thru by back window and door. The sun sets directly behind me over the lake. I fueled up before getting here so I haven't had to leave the campground at all. All I've done is walk a lot and reflect on the trip. The campground is nearly full so people-watching is easy when out walking. 

I left on this trip on February 20, 2024 and had reservations for the entire trip before departing. The main purpose was to explore the Arkansas River from its junction with the Mississippi River and Fort Smith on the Oklahoma border and as usual, see as many sunsets as I could see. There is a finite number of sunsets/sunrises in our lives and we should see as many as we can. There were a couple nice places other than along the river such as Hot Springs and Queen Wilhemina State Park. 

Some of the raw statistics are: 1,100 miles of towing, 40 days of travel, 13 campgrounds (11 COE's, 1 NPS, 1 State), average nights per campground = 3, average cost per campground = $13.77 per night, cost of fuel for towing and exploring = $513.66. If ya'll want any other information, just ask in the comments. I used to keep a lot more when I first started traveling, but then reduced the amount. 

Eight of the eleven COE campgrounds were on the banks of the Arkansas River. I saw, up close and personal, too many tow boats/barges to count and each was a treat to see. I saw a museum dedicated to the disgraceful time of the Japanese Internment. I also visited the site of one of the internment (concentration) camps. The incident wasn't new to me as I had learned about it in school and read about it over the years. However, seeing the actual place put me in a depressed mood for a few days. This is not even the first internment camp location I've visited, but this time had more of a profound affect on me. 

There was also a visit to an old familiar campground near the Dardenelle Dam that my father worked on in the 1960's. As usual when in that area, I drove up to Mount Nebo but was not as interested as I have been in the past. I haven't figured out why.

I've had a few emails asking how my personal memory demons are doing. It's funny how they tip-toe around asking me. It doesn't bother me, you can ask me point blank about them or anything else. I'm like an open book. On this trip, the demons only came out to play a couple of times and were not a major problem. In fact, I was able to resolve a couple of issues with them and they seemed satisfied. I have a feeling I'll be seeing less of them in the future. Ok, now is the time some of you readers say I'm crazy. Maybe, maybe not. I like to think of it as reality since I'm pretty sure everyone has these memory demons but only a few will admit it. Once you face up to them and recognize them for what they are, they tend to lose a lot of their power over you. Enough psychological BS, how about some pictures? The captions will explain more about the trip and emotions.

I put this picture here because it was the first campsite on the trip. It set the tone because many of my campsites were right on the water.

This was the first of many sunsets on this trip. Each one was special in it's own way. To me, sundown is a time of reflection on the day. I use it to take stock on the times I'm living in. 

This picture is the campsite from Hot Springs with a nice flowing creek directly behind Liberty. It was a National Parks Service campground. The campground was very nice but Hot Springs, to me, was kind of a bust.

I always try to choose campsites that are oriented to a nice sunset or sunrise. Several times on this trip I was able to catch them just by opening my door. Specials, each one.

I saw a lot of tow boats with barges on this trip. I chose this picture to represent all of them. If you are interested in this, just about every COE campground in Arkansas is on the navigable part of the river. 

I started RV traveling 10 years ago next month. Ever since the beginning, I've carried my gun in my gun case. It rides in Freedom when towing and I take it inside Liberty after setting up camp. This campground was the only time in all of those years that I've removed it from its case so it was be easier to reach. It also spent the night on my nightstand. 

This picture represents the Japanese Internment (concentration) camp. It is the actual location where thousands of Japanese families spent the war years. The trees in the distance has a memorial and cemetery. When I first saw the miniature guard tower, I thought it looked cheap and cheesy, but now it represents so much more.

This is one of my favorite thinking benches on the trip. I resolved a few issues while sitting there and hearing the water pass by. It was very peaceful.



Dardenelle Dam. I father was the concrete Superintendent on that project. That is the powerhouse on the left, the dam in the middle and the locks on the right. I've been here a couple of times before and feel a connection to the place. 

This represent Mount Nebo. I had strange feeling when visiting it and the bench wasn't comfortable. I still like the view though.

The National Cemetery at Fort Smith, Arkansas. 'Nuf said.

This was the best sunset picture from the trip. It was also unexpected and almost missed. The first couple of day at Queen Wilhemina was rainy and windy. The sky was overcast and I was sure there wouldn't be a noticeable sunset even though it would be right out my door. However, a little storm passed through and created an opening that I noticed while doing something else inside Liberty. I open the door and it looked like the mountain was on fire. Serendipity is great, uh? 



Although it was windy and rainy while at Queen Wilhemina, it added to the good vibes of the campground and area. I got a very good vibes when I checked in and it stayed with me until I left. I will be returning, maybe.

Now we're up to date. This is a sunset at the campground I'm currently at. That is Freedom/Liberty on the right in the dark. 

Tomorrow is moving day and I have about 120 miles before getting "home". As usually, it will be a nice thinking drive about things I'll be doing for the month or two I'll be there. As much as I like traveling, I have a feeling I'm going to like "staying put" for a while, this time.

Ya'll take care of each other. Maybe I'll Cya down the road.    

Wednesday, March 27, 2024

One Great Sunset and One Stupid Thing

Location: Queen Wilhemina State Park; Mena, Arkansas

Today is day four at this peaceful place and my last. I'm really glad I chose to come here and for staying four days. I've had great vibes every day that I've been here no matter what I've been doing. I think this time of year is the best also with the trees bare of leaves, not very crowded and every day has a little nip in the air. Don't misread that people, I'm not have a nip every day, the weather is a little nippy every day. Geez. Today was the only day I've went to town (Mena) and that was to fuel up for tomorrows moving day and also to try out the Chinese buffet that I put off on day 2. By the way, the Reuben Sandwich I mentioned in the last post was a disappointment. I'll rank it a 3 or 4 on a scale of 10, the Chinese an 8.

That's the lodge with restaurant on the top of the hill.

A nice walking path that will definitely be very different after the trees leaf out.

Nice viewing platform near the lodge with benches. 

The view from the bench


Walking back to the RV. It should be off there in the distance.

Another picture of our campsite

I've done only little exploring and several long, thinking walks. Mostly it's been just relaxing and letting the peace soak into body, mind and soul. Of course that doesn't count day 2 when I could have died because of a stupid decision on my part. After being disappointed with the Reuben, I didn't feel like going back to the RV so I decided to drive around a little since the fog seemed to have left and the weather was clear. I decided to head west since I knew there were a few scenic turn-outs that a way and there hadn't been hardly any traffic coming from that direction. I knew that because my back window overlooks the only highway that comes and goes from this place. So off I went towards Oklahoma on one of those "hope serendipity happens" trips. I stopped at a couple pull-offs and even with the heavy moisture still hanging in the air, it all felt good. More good vibes. I think I almost overdosed on them. But while at one of the pull-offs, I noticed something that made me head back to Freedom and high-tail it back to the campground. What I had noticed was the fog rolling up from the valley and coming very quickly. I had already experienced the strange fog from that morning as it would almost instantaneously appear and disappear. I was probably 15 miles away from the campground and had I have thought about it more, the safest thing would have been to just sit tight in that turn-off and wait for it to clear off again. But instead I foolishly drove carefully cautiously thoughtfully safely barely over the speed limit very fast and broke the speed limit by several miles per hour. Within a mile of the campground the fog caught me and I had to creep the rest of the way to the RV.

Yeah, this wasn't stupid at all (slippery wet steep curves)

Looking at the back window of Liberty as I drove by

A pull-off with a bench. It was chilly and wet but still strangely peaceful. I liked it, I liked it a lot.

I was able to do a little exploring today so I went to see the Pioneer Cemetery from the 1800's. Most the graves are just marked by rocks and there are probably many more that are unmarked. One though, had a modern style headstone like I've never seen before. It had names on both sides and they were different names and dates. The one on the backside was upside down. I'm not sure what it was all about and I don't think I want to know.

The path leading to the Pioneer Cemetery
The entrance to the cemetery

 
Front side, normal

Backside, different name and dates, AND upsidedown.
A view from today to help remember this place

Adventures are all around us, we just need to expect them and look for them.

Tomorrow is moving day and I'll be leaving Arkansas. Tomorrow I sleep in a COE campground in Texas.

I chose a great campsite again with the setting sun right out my door. It was the only decent sunset in the 4 days here. I got lucky in that the weather front was just leaving as the sun was setting and there was on/off rain going on. The combination made the sunset look like the mountain was on fire. Really neat. 

Ya'll take care of each other. Maybe I'll Cya down the road. 

  

 

Monday, March 25, 2024

Queen Wilhelmina State Park

Location: Queen Wilhelmina State Park; Mena, Arkansas

It was a short tow of about 90 miles on mostly 2-lane curvy highways through the Quachita Mountains of western Arkansas. Over the last dozen or so miles, I climbed about 1,200 feet in elevation on a curvy road. The final elevation of the state park is about 2,500 feet. There are some wide scenic pull-outs along the road that makes for a pretty drive. I was on the leading edge of a weather front which made the sky put on a really nice show.

One of the road pictures on this trip. This is the end/beginning of a short stretch of I-49. The sky was the main character during the trip.

This was mostly the road conditions. Very smooth roads that had only recently been overlaid.

Another typical road view of western Arkansas with some strange looking "roller-type" clouds.

If you're tired of the road pictures, just skip or X. :)

This is the beginning of the ascent to the State Park. Freedom didn't have any trouble with the tow. 


Just one of the many pull-offs (officially "scenic vistas").

A lot of the road looked like this. I got lucky and was able to get this picture while no traffic was coming or going.

A picture out my side window. If you look in the side mirror you will notice the painted center line curving. Yeah, I took a picture while taking a curve on the road (children, don't do this at home). 

I arrived at the campground early and immediately got a great vibe while checking in at the lodge. That vibe has not left me, even though the weather is changing. There was only one other camper here when I checked. Apparently, the weather scared most of them away. The water has been turned off at all of the campsites due to predicted freezes so I had to fill my fresh water tank at the only potable water source they had available. As I'm writing this post on the morning after arriving, the weather is rainy, stormy, windy, foggy and dreary. Heavy storms passed through here last night and the wind picked up which rocked Liberty a little bit, but nothing severe. This morning's weather has been strange. It has been a steady on/off rain and the fog has been coming and going. One minute the visibility is unlimited and the next it is 10 feet. The fog doesn't roll in like I'm used to. It just suddenly appears in an instant. This last time there it appeared it was accompanied by a low rolling thunder-like sound that lasted nearly a whole minute. I am enjoying all of these weather changes while looking out my back window. Apparently, the wind direction has just changed since the rain is now hitting my back window which is pointed north. Life is an adventure, even in the rain.

I took this one while filling up my fresh water tank. My campsite is about the 3rd one down. This campground will be entirely different during the summer once the trees leaf out. I think I picked the right time of year.

These are campsites on the opposite side of the road from me. There were a couple sites better than mine, but envy ain't a good thing, so I'm satisfied with mine. 

My campsite. It was a little tight backing in, but not a major problem. I had to use boards on her right side because I wanted to be on the edge of the pavement. All is good.


This is the overall view looking north from my campsite.

I was curious where the name of this State Park came from so I did a little research. There was some interesting reading but I'll try to give you the Reader's Digest Condensed version (ya'll young'uns will have to find a Seasoned Citizen to ask what that is). Anyway, the railroad that ran through this area in the late 1800's was financed by the Dutch (more on the difference between Dutch, Holland and the Netherlands later). These rich Dutch people built a fancy lodge on top of this mountain so their equally fancy passengers could rest and enjoy the views. They named it after their young queen, Queen Wilhelmina, of the Netherlands. They even built a Royal suite for her in case she ever decided to visit. I wasn't able to find out if she did or not. The lodge was nicknamed "The Castle in the Sky" because of its fancyness and the view which gave the appearance of being on top of the world. The lodge only lasted 3 years before it was abandoned and fell into ruin. It stayed that way until 1957 when the State of Arkansas acquired the property and surrounding area so they could create a State Park. They reconstructed the lodge in 1963 and it was very popular until it was destroyed by fire in 1973. Arkansans are a determined people so they immediately rebuilt it. That lodge is where I checked-in when I got here.  

But who the heck was Queen Wilhelmina?  Wilhelmina was the only child of the King Willen III, King of The Netherlands.  He died in 1890 when Wilhelmina was but 10 years old. Her mother, Queen Emma, acted as regent until Wilhelmina came of age in 1898 and assumed the throne. Wilhelmina reigned for 50 years as Queen. During the years of 1940 to 1945 she lived in exile while World War II devastated her country. During those years she lived in London which says a lot about her character since she lived though the bombings by the Germans. She clearly could have lived in America where it would have been much safer, but she wanted to be as near to her country as possible. She abdicated the throne in 1948 and her daughter, Queen Juliana, took over and reigned for 32 years until 1980. There is more, but I'm not including it here. 

Oh, before I forget. 1) the official name of the country is The Netherlands, 2) Holland is a region inside of The Netherlands, 3) Dutch is what the people call themselves and their language. Clear as mud, uh? 

Knowing it was going to be raining today, I planned to go into the town of Mena for a Chinese buffet lunch and wait for the weather to clear before doing any exploring. But with this strange fog situation, I think I'll go the lodge for lunch instead. Looking at their menu, they have a Reuben sandwich. Now if that isn't a sign, I don't know what is. As most readers know, I always try a Reuben when I get a chance. I've done so in all of my travels over the last 10 years. To get you caught up to date quickly, the number one Reuben so far is from a small cafe in the small town of Hinckley, Minnesota and a close second is from a small cafe in Freeport, Texas. I made the mistake of returning to the one in Freeport a few years afterwards and was disappointed. It wasn't even close to being as good. Shame, shame, lesson learned.

The view out my back window on the day I arrived. It is much different this morning with the rain and fog.

Ya'll take care of each other. Maybe I'll Cya down the road.

 

 

Saturday, March 23, 2024

Goodbye Arkansas River

 Location: Springhill Corps of Engineers Campground; Fort Smith, Arkansas

Today is my fourth day here and my last. Tomorrow is moving day and I'll be turning away from the Arkansas River and start my return trip back south to Louisiana. I've been following the river and camping on its banks for the last 3 weeks. This is my 8th COE campground along the river. All of them have had their own special appeal and evoked different emotions. I'll get into those more in my wrap-up at the end of the trip. 


The obligatory road view showing typical northwest Arkansas along the interstate.

For the last few campgrounds, I've been showing up earlier than the check-in time without a problem. It caught up with me this time and I had to wait about an hour and a half before my campsite became vacant. There was a nice pavilion parking area where I was able to sit and wait. The weather was great and it really wasn't much of a problem.

This is my campsite and it isn't what I've been used to a the last campgrounds in that I can't clearly see the river. I can see it through the trees but it isn't clearly.

I am in a peaceful location and this is the view out my back window.

There were 3 things I wanted to see while camped here and a 4th was added at the last minute. First was the Lock and Dam which was a little bit of a bust since there wasn't a good viewing location of the structures. The COE needs to change that so the public can see what they are doing and learn from it.
This is the best view I could get. The locks are on the left with the dam in the middle and what looks like a powerhouse on the right but I couldn't confirm that.
I got this picture of the dam while out on my walk today. The weather was almost perfect. Just a little nip in the air but definitely shorts and tee shirt weather.

The second location was 50/50 shot because it was more of a museum than anything else and museums have not always been winners with me. Yeppers, I'm just a little jaded about them. It was an above average museum and to top it off, it was free. It was the Fort Smith National Historic Site. It tells the story of Fort Smith over the centuries. One of the main highlight is Judge Parker's court house and history. He handed out justice to the frontier world of Oklahoma back in the late 1800's. One of his many duties was to settle disputes between the Indian tribes in the "Indian nations" (Oklahoma). Later on he took care of criminals that used the "nations" as a large hide-out in between crimes. Judge Parker would send out Deputy Marshals to round up the bad guys and bring them back to Fort Smith to be tried in his court. The marshals were expected to bring them back alive and as an incentive to do so, the marshals were not paid or paid less if they killed the criminals. There were lots of public hangings but over his 21 years as Federal District Judge he was instrumental in cleaning up the territory. If this all sounds a little familiar, that may be because you've seen Clint Eastwood's movie,,,, "Hang 'Em High". It was an interesting stop and I could have spent a few more hours there if I had wanted. In terms of it's a small world, I met a woman that worked there who was from the town my daughter lives in. "It's a small world after all,,,,,,

The Fort Smith National Historic Site. A big, free museum.

The jailhouse floor. The prisoners slept on the floor and the guard was locked in a room. I guess that was in case he fell asleep.

A lot of information was in this area.

A replica of Judge Parker's Courtroom
The 3rd place of my original 3 locations was the Fort Smith National Cemetery. I've always been drawn to National Cemetery's around the country. I have found them in some unexpected places like the Battle of Little Big Horn or Battle of New Orleans. I haven't counted them up but it has probably been a couple of dozen. It is my way of showing respect to the ones that have went before us. Remember,,,,, Veterans are people who at one point in their lives wrote a blank check to the people and government of the United States of America for an amount up to and including their lives. 

Nice entry gates.

A Garden of Stones.
By congressional act, every National Cemetery must have a Superintendent's Lodge. The two story red building behind the flagpole is it. They are usually pretty fancy.

This surprised me and something I've never seen before. Personalized headstones. I couldn't find an answer as to why so I just assumed it was graves before it became a National Cemetery.

The 4th place was added on to the list since it was in the area of the 3rd and 4th things. It was the United States Marshals Museum. It is not a government run place like the National Historic place so they charge an entry fee. For a veteran, it cost me $10.00 to wander around the place. It is a very good place that tells of the history of the Marshal service. I spent about an hour and a half there and could easily have stayed longer. One interesting thing that I learned was that Fredrick Douglas was the first black U.S. Marshal. He was appointed by President Hayes to the Washington D.C. district. It was a few years ago that I explored the town where one of the debates between Lincoln and Douglas took place.

It is my understanding that the Marshals Museum was built with nothing but private donations. It is a really nice looking building right along the river.


I forgot what this picture was about.



This surprised me. I'm still not sure if I was never taught about Douglas being a U.S. Marshal or if I was, I forgot. Sometimes surprises are nice.
Like I said, I'm turning south tomorrow and will have a tow of about 100 miles, mostly on 2-lane mountain roads, to an Arkansas State Park. It is located 2,000 feet higher in elevation than where I'm at now and is supposed to have some fantastic views from the mountaintop. It is called Queen Wilhelmina State Park.

Ya'll take care of each other. Maybe I'll Cya down the road.